There are akmost as many different cables and leadsoffered retail aa there are guitars, and they are equally as diverse, both in type and quality. So , how do you know if the one you are buying is a good one?
Electric guitar pick-ups, no matter how powerful, give a tiny electrical impulse, which has to be carried to your amplifier before it will make any sound. It is necessary then to consider the cable that carries your signal first. All guitar leads use screened cable - that is,lead which has a centre element surrounded by another webbed shield or screen, which usually forms the other part of the circuit.The length of your lead,differing quality of materials used, both in the metals used for thecabling , the webbed-screen and the insulationitself all contribute toward how much of the original signal gets to your amplifier.If you are unable to find any written description of materials to help your choice, a good rule of thumb is choose the most flexible, soft cable you can find.Soft insulation costs more, generally, than the stiffer kind, and if the manufacturerchooses good quality outer insulation, then the chances are the rest of the materials used will also be of similarquality. Some manufacturers of leadhave their name printed along the length of their own custom madecable, such as 'planet waves', and if they are that proud of their product, it usually means it is ofgood quality. Others offer life time guarantees, such as 'Whirlwind'. Guaranteed it may be , but to actually try to get the guarantee honoured, the lead usually has to be returned to the manufacturer by the claimant,and the cost of postage is usually more than the cost of a replacement anyway !
Length of cable is also an important consideration. Your lead should be no longer than you need, as extra length means more of your guitar signal is lost before it reachesyour amp. I usually find I can mange these days on 3m cables for live work, but if you are more mobile, a 5m may be necessary. Never buy too short a cable for your needs as it will result in embarrassing live experiences. I now make a point of looping my cable through my strap to allow some slack before plugging it into my guitar to avoid standing on it and unplugging it in the middle of a solo!
Jack plugs are also a consideration.take special note of the way the cable emerges from the back of the plug, and how good a strainer is included, as this isthe usual place which causes cable failure. For the most part, I try to avoid moulded plugs, as, by definition, you cannot mend them if they break! I also have had bad experiences with metal 'spring' type strainers, which look very pretty until they stretch, but in fact seem to do nothing at all to protect the lead itself.
If you are handy with a soldering iron, or even if not, it is worth spending time occasionally learning how to mend those cables which have let you down. Good quality plugs are readily and cheaplyavailable if required, but usually the fault is one of the leads, either the centre cable or the screen, has become uinsoldered. When resoldered, the lead is good as new, and saves the cost of replacement - although some modern cables are made not to be resoldered without specialequipment.
My experience of 'radio' guitar connections has not been good as I have not used one yetwhichproduces a consistent sound, and quality systems are just too expensive.
Avoid those spiral 'telephone' extending leads. They are usually of poor quality, always stretch alarmingly, and have really cheap moulded plugs which last about as long as it takes to get home..
Finally, if your lead is noisy when it moves on the floor whenplugged in, then replace it. You willspend hours trying to trace the fault, and then will need to shorten it accordingly to discard the broken part.
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